Burgers Your Way

Made a new basic burger tonight which was mad simple, and i was able to focus on customized ingredient toppings for Lori and I. Found a writeup in one of my grilling books about adding a couple teaspoons of ketchup to the raw meat, along with salt and pepper. I shaped these as usual with a thumb imprint in the middle to get a flatter burger after cooked:

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I thought I'd use some bacon as a topping, but the fat content was out of control on the boar's head bacon i picked up at the butcher. So i sliced as much off as i could, and ended up with strips to cook like this:

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And even more gross looking is what i had left over:

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But a lightbulb went off and i thought i could use the fat to oil the grill grates:

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Great idea. These burgers never even attempted to stick to the grates. Super easy to rotate for grill marks and flip. Once the burgers were done (about 5 minutes per side), i started layering. On a grill toasted brioche hamburger bun bottom i started with some bacon strips:

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Then the burger:

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And then the variations. I opted for blue cheese, arugula, and raw red onion:

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Lori opted for american, mixed greens, tomato, raw red onion, and avocado:

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These two pics are perhaps the most staged and self-conscious food pics I've taken to date. But man, these were some solid burgers. Not the absolute best ones yet... still overcooked a bit. I have to remember to cut the time down. Should have done for 7-8 minutes total i think instead of 10. Lori ended up thinking she liked my classic worcestershire/oregano combo better than this ketchup mix... which made sense for her toppings. Mine with the blue cheese needed something more basic and i think this was the right mix. Fun burgers to make though. I loved the process as usual. 

 

 

Fridge Pickles

For the past two years I've been staring at this amazing picture of a jar of pickles in one of our Sara Foster's cook books. Every time I see it I say to myself, damn I have to make those soon. Well this weekend I finally gave it a shot, and they are the perfect summer pickle. Crisp, refreshing, not too sweet, and pack a little (tiny) kick. Here's what you need:

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That picture shows white vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, cloves, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, dill seed, white onion, and kirby pickles. Kirby pickles. I've never had them before, and the first thing that comes to mind when I see their name is Kirby Puckett. Baseball. Summer. Makes sense. Anyway, SF recommends using them because of their ability to stay crisp and I can't complain about the results. I peeled some strips pf skin off, and sliced to between an eigth and a quarter inch thick. I used 3 kirbies. (Kirbies! Needs to be a brand name). I also sliced some white onion as thinly as i could: 

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You mix all the ingredients aside from the pickles and onion into a quart jar and shake it up. Then simply layer in Kirbies (really, needs to be brand name) and white onion. Pack 'em in as tight as you can. This was my final jar:

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You throw that in the fridge, and let it soak for at least 4hrs, though i did mine overnight i think. GREAT pickles. And incredibly easy. Please try them.... here are the measurements if you want to take it for a spin: 

  • 1 cup white vinegar
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 
  • 1 teaspoon dill seed
  • 4 to 5 small kirby (pickling) cucumbers, peeled in stripes and sliced into 1/8 inch thick rounds
  • 1 small white onion, thinly sliced into rounds 

How To: Smoked Pulled Pork

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I can't reveal everything here as I try to perfect this sandwich, but I was really happy with this pulled pork from the weekend. Here's what i did:

I ordered a shoulder from Pigasso Farms a week earlier at the Hudson Farmer's Market, and as i walked up to his tent Rob recognized me straight away. He pulled out a frozen solid 9lb pork shoulder for me, coming in at $63. It was a different cut than I'm used to... I think i often get basically half of this thing, where this time i had both sides of the shoulder joint. I thawed it in a pot of water for about 5 hours, and then proceeded with the prep. 12-18 hrs before i planned to smoke it, I cut off the skin:

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That is absolutely the worst part of this process. Totally disgusting. But its all worth it. After the skin is removed (but as much fat as possible is left on top) you get this:
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I then brined the shoulder in a mixture of salt and molasses in a filled dutch oven (maybe 1/4 cup of each to a couple quarts of water). This sat in the fridge for 12-18 hrs:
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I also soaked a bowl full of hickory wood chucks in water overnight to create the most smoke as possible in the fire, and to help keep the wood from igniting to quickly. Wild Turkey was for sipping, not marinating:
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The next day i removed it from the brine, and let it come to room temp while i got the fire started. I then applied my classic bbq rub I mentioned here, though this time i remembered the brown sugar. That sat like this for another 60 minutes or so while the fire got cranking:
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I filled the smoker's water pan with 2 quarts of cider, and another 2 quarts of water, and then set the shoulder fat side up (so the fat bastes while it melts). The fire was running hot and I needed to head with the family to OCCS for our weekend breakfast out.... so i decided to close the vents entirely. Bad move. I got back 2 hrs later and the fire was totally smothered. No more heat. So i had to restart the fire, get the temp right, and put the shoulder back on. In total I lost about 2-3 hrs of smoking time which was a real shame. I suppose I could have made everyone wait until midnight to eat, but TK, JK, and OK were visiting for the day and that would have been cruel. 

So at this point I had let this thing smoke for about 5-6 hours:
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I never had to add more coal (i used Cowboy hardwood coal), but i added a few chunks of the soaked Hickory every couple hours and stirred it up a bit to keep it going.  I then made my mop which this time around consisted of a can of beer, a 1/4 cup canola oil, a 1/4 cup cider vinegar, and a 1/4 cup of the rub. I shake this up, and then use a mop-brush to lightly mop it onto the shoulder's top and let is pour down the sides... paying careful attention to not remove the bark that is forming. I did this about every hour for the remaining 3 hours. Ideally this would have smoked for a total of 10-12 hrs, but i had to take it off at 8. Normally at 8 hrs i would wrapped in foil most likely, and continued on. But honestly it was still pretty awesome... there were just a few portions that were harder to pull than they should have been. Though it all tasted wonderfully.

I put the shoulder back in the (cleaned) dutch oven, set the cover on top, and let is rest for about 60 minutes. Then its onto the carving board for pulling with two forks:
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I spend careful time here to make sure I'm removing any large pieces of non-rendered fat. Its really amazing to see how little fat there is left over after slow cooking all day. JK and TK sat around while I pulled, nibbling at different chucks of meat as they made their way to the serving bowl (again, the dutch oven). So fun. 

At one point during the day i made my vinegar-based red sauce which is the piece I'll keep quiet about here. Its essentially cider vinegar and ketchup, but the few extra ingredients in there help to round out the flavor. But if you made it with 2 parts cider vinegar, 1 part ketchup, and a few spices to add some heat/kick you'd get the general idea.

Lori made her classic slaw which to this day I swear there is none better. I don't have the recipe because she's got it all in her head, but its basically red cabbage, carrot, dill, drained yogurt, mustard powder, and horseradish. I'm sure there are some other items in there... but that's the general jist.

I tried making my own rolls for these, but they turned out too dense and too small:

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I was using the French Baguette recipe I'd had great success with, but adjusted the temperature for roll-sized balls of dough as suggested by Bittman in HTCE. It just didn't work for me... oven temp might have been a touch low as that oven is impossible to gauge. When they came out of the oven I started thinking the idea of Pulled Pork Sliders was appealing, but this is such a "pile it on" sandwich that its tough to not have a lot of surface area. And the denseness of the roll just killed it for me. Despite that, in the end this was a really solid pulled pork event:
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I wrote up a final review of the meal for my pork-a-thon thread, and we served with fridge pickles, collard greens, and a snap pea & arugula salad (provided by the infamous More Please herself, of course) on the side. But this is one of my favorite pics of the nite:
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I think one of main reasons i love bbq is the massive amounts of food you make, and the essential requirement to invite friends and family over to eat with you. TK, JK, and OK are amazing company, and it was a thrill to cook for them, sit around our new farmhouse table on the renovated screened in porch, and make up a bunch of pulled pork sliders over good conversation and a bottle of wine. So fun! Our family dinners aren't quite there yet with a 4 and 2 yr old at the table, but I look forward to the days when both CCF and JBF can dig into some of their Dad's BBQ with Mama at the helm. Go BBQ!

 

Pork-a-thon: BBQ Billy's Memorial Day Pulled Pork

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Ok, I tried my first pulled pork of the season, and my first on the new smoker. After brining for about 18 hours I started up the fire around 8:30am, and it was going real hot at 9:30 so i decided to toss on the rubbed shoulder, close the vents and head out to breakfast with the family. When i returned at 11, I found an entirely smothered fire. Dead. 100 degrees inside. Damn, those vents are way more airtight than that Brinkmann i used for years. So i started up a new fire, set the vents at about 50%, and by noon was smoking again. Smoked for 8 hrs, could have gone for 10... but it was pretty solid anyway. Had more, please (Husband, and Dog  in tow) over to help devour, and I'd say it was a success. Maybe not absolutely perfect, but MP did leave "drunk on pork" which i think has to be a phrase i use somewhere. Anyway, here's my official "Pork-a-thon" review.

Price: Lets see.... it was a $63, 9lb shoulder from Pigasso Farms (why don't these people have a web site? OMG!). Probably could have made 20 sandwiches out of it. So add in all the extras, I figure this would be a $10-12 sandwich.

Appearance: Great visual smoke penetration and mix of pink and darkish coloring. Lots of crusty bark, and not a lot of fat. Piled up high it looked amazing (though my pictures sucked).

Pork Solo: Not overly smoked, very rich tasting. Incredibly tender. Bark was good, but maybe a touch too rich. It didn't have that immediate, holy-crap-this-is-the-best-thing-ever taste i was looking for, but it was hands down better than what I've tasted in my pork-a-thon thus far.

Sauce: I decree that I have perfected the vinegar red sauce. The richness of the solo pork was brightened up perfectly which just a few dashes of the sauce. I'm in love with this sauce! Note to self: don't change a thing.

Cole Slaw: What can I say about LEF's slaw? I love it. She thought it was better on day 2 which is usually the case, but I was very happy with it. She omitted the green cabbage and i didn't miss it at all. The only thing I'd change is a slightly thinner and shorter cut, but otherwise the flavor is amazing.

Bun: The dinner crowd liked them, but i thought they were wrong. I've never made rolls before, but I tried using the Baguette recipe  just using smaller quantities of dough and a revised temp setting as recommended by Bittman. Didn't work. Too dense, too small, and too much flavor. I ended up eating them more like pizza with pulled pork and slaw on top of a half a roll. Which means i ate 4 instead of 2. Mmmmm.... more pork.

Total Package: So aside from the roll, this was pretty spot on. The sauce was really the perfect pairing for the richness of the pork. I think next time around I'll try a slightly modified rub though. I might lose the Curry from it, or maybe take down the level of paprika. It would definitely benefit from a smoked Chili powder which I have only used once.... but I think might need to make an appearance again. I was definitely happy with this, and if served up in a bar setting I would be absolutely thrilled with it. I paired it with a Foxglove Zinfindel, but a PBR in a can would be just as killer. Personal rating = 7 of 10. I can get to 10.

Simple Beer Can Chicken

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Pigasso Farms was at the Hudson Farmer's market last weekend, and in addition to asking Rob to bring a pork shoulder for some memorial day weekend smoking (can't wait), I picked up a whole chicken, roughly 4 1/4 pounds. Cooking laziness got the better of us that weekend, so we brought it back to Brooklyn not knowing how we'd prepare it. It was a 90 degree scorcher in town on wednesday, and i had grilling on the mind. So out came Steven Raichlen's book on beer-can chicken and the festivities began. 

I actually didn't use anything from Steven's recipes... but did consult on timing and approach. I used a dead simple rub of olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic, and sat the bird on a half-full can of Pabst Blue Ribbon. Grilled on the gas weber with indirect heat for about 1 hr and 40 minutes (should have talken it off closer to 1 hr 20 minutes), and prepared a simple vinaigrette with a lemon, a tablespoon of cilantro, and a clove of minced garlic. Chopped up the chicken (i love the method of removing the breast entirely from the bird, and then slicing into steak-like strips), and then i drizzled the vinaigrette over everything, and served alongside Lori's balsamic greens with avocado, carrot, and shaved parmesan. 

Results were decent, or maybe better than decent. Flavor on the chicken and vinaigrette were perfect. dark meat was very moist, white meat was bordering on dry but you couldn't call it dry. I should have stopped cooking 20 minutes earlier, but aside from that it was top-notch. Super easy too... i'll make it again for sure. The Pigcasso chicken was good.... though i didn't notice anything totally amazing here. 18 bucks for a whole chicken is not cheap, but there is always that piece of mind that they are decent to their animals. Which honestly can go a long way in this cook's opinion. 

 

 

 

 

Pork-a-thon: Bubby's Pulled Pork

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Continuing the pork-a-thon review thread going, I had a pulled pork sandwich from Bubby's in Dumbo today. Here's what I thought:

 

Price: $12

 Appearance: I liked the nice balance of crust, large pulls, and shredded pulls. Hate that sauce in a little dish though, gimme a squirt bottle!

Pork solo: nice crust pieces, and very moist. Smoke flavor was mild, but definitely present. A few too many pieces of fat, but overall I'd say it's pretty good.

Sauce: Thick! I'm definitely more of a vinegar sauce type guy, and this is a classic thick tomato and brown sugar type sauce. Great on the fries, andnit does work with the pork I'm just a fan of the thin vinegar sauce on my pulled sandwiches.

Bun: a very buttery, maybe even egg or potato bun. No seeds (that's good). And it was grilled warm on a flat griddle type thing (guessing). A bit too much butter involved when combined with a fatty pork selection. I tend to like a little crunch on bread too... But I'm not in the majority on that one. 

Cole Slaw: Mostly red cabbage, and not a ton of kick/flavor. But it did meld well with the pork, sauce, and bun.

Total package: Better than I recalled from earlier visits. I think all of the components worked very well together making it a solid pulled sandwich, but it's just not what I love about them. I was left wanting more smoke, more vinegar, and more crunch.